Diamonds  Rough  Polished Exquisite Holdings Press Release Terminology

Diamond Terminology


AGS

American Gemological Society. Widely respected in the trade, and considered by many the ultimate authority for cut grading reports.

Blemish

An exterior imperfection on a diamond, usually a feature of the cutting or polishing of the stone. A diamond may have blemishes and still have an "Internally Flawless" (IF) grading. Most blemishes are so small as to have no affect on the beauty or brilliance of the stone.

Brilliance

Along with life, scintillation, refraction and dispersion, a word used to describe the ability of a diamond to "sparkle" in response to the introduction of light.

Carat Standard unit of weight for diamonds and other gemstones. One carat is equal to 1/5 of a gram. There are 100 "points" to the carat (abbreviated ct.).
Clarity The degree to which a diamond is free from inclusions, graded on a scale from Flawless (FL) to heavily imperfect (I3).
Clarity Enhancement See "drilling" and "fracture filling"" Laboratory reports, such as those offered by Ashford.com are your best protection against clarity enhanced stones.
Cleavage

An internal feature which runs in the direction of the grain of the diamond. It sometimes extends to the surface of the diamond, or is "healed" inside the diamond. A cleavage is sometimes easily visible, sometimes not. A diamond may be "cleaved," or split in two with a smart, precisely placed blow to a cleavage.

Cloud

A cluster of microscopic white or crystalline inclusions or pinpoints inside a diamond. Usually visible only with back lighting and under high magnification.

Color

For most preferences, the best color is no color or "colorless". Most diamonds have some lesser or greater degree of yellow or brown color, sometimes so slight that it is virtually imperceptible. Some rare diamonds have very intense or exotic colors (canary, pink, blue, green, purple, or even red) and can be extraordinarily valuable. Colors are designated by letter grades - "D" for absolutely colorless to "Z" for light yellow, and by verbal descriptions for the "fancy" colors.

Color Enhancement

Laboratory processes ranging from a simple coating or "painting" as it is known in the trade to sophisticated permanent alteration of the presence of certain trace elements found in the naturally occurring diamond. Laboratory certification is your best protection against treated stones.

Culet

The bottom most facet or point of a diamond. The culet of some round diamonds may be so pointed they are considered to not be a facet at all.

Cut

This is one of the most important of all diamond characteristics, and among the hardest to judge. The proportions of a stone as well as its polish and precision of faceting determine how much of the diamond's potential fire and beauty may be released.

Diamond cutters are paid to maintain a balance between retaining the maximum weight from rough stones and cutting the finest possible diamond at the expense of "yield." Some diamonds are cut exceedingly deep or shallow, or are shaped to conform to the original shape of the rough stone. A poorly made stone tends to result in a higher yield (less waste) from the rough while a better made diamond "wastes" more of the rough. A well-cut round diamond typically weighs only about 40% or less of the original weight of the piece of rough the cutter started with. This is why better cut diamonds command a premium, and why Ideal Cut round diamonds are the most valuable of all.

The way a diamond is cut profoundly influence its sparkle, fire and brilliance, as well as its perceived size and even, to some degree its apparent color. In order to maximize the diamond's brilliance it must be well polished and cut in a geometrically precise manner. This means properly aligning the facets so light will enter the diamond and reflect back through the large top facet, or table of the diamond.

Depth The distance between the culet (bottom) and the table (top) of the diamond, recorded in a laboratory report to the one hundredth of a millimeter.
Depth % The depth of a diamond is the distance between the table and the culet. The depth percentage is calculated by dividing the depth measurement by the full width of the diamond at the girdle. A depth percentage that is too small (too shallow) or too large (too deep) will result in light loss and reduced brilliance. In combination with other factors, the depth percentage is a significant component of a diamond's overall cut quality and value.
Drilling An enhancement process by which a laser is used to drill into a diamond to reach a dark colored inclusion. Acids are then introduced through the small hole and into the inclusion which is then burned out leaving a less noticeable white or crystalline imperfection. The acid is then removed by vacuum. The laser drilling process is also used occasionally to aid in fracture filling. A laboratory report is your best protection against drilled stones.
EGL

European Gemological Laboratory. Widely respected in the trade offering independent grading certificates.

Eye-clean Free of any internal inclusions or external blemishes to the naked eye, when viewed from the top.
Facets The polished planes (surfaces) on the surface of the diamond, defining its dimensions.
Feather

A common, naturally occurring white or crystalline feather shaped inclusion, which may or may not be visible to the naked eye.

Fire Along with life, scintillation, refraction and dispersion, a word used to describe the ability of a diamond to "sparkle" in response to the introduction of light.
Fluorescence

Also known as photoluminescence, the property some diamonds have that makes them glow a certain color (usually blue) when placed in an ultraviolet rich environment. Strong, very strong and sometimes medium blue fluorescence may slightly improve the color appearance of diamonds rated "H" in color or below (I,J,K etc). Such fluorescence in some of the "lower" colors may even enhance the value of these stones. Strong blue fluorescence in diamonds D to F color may impart a very slightly bluish appearance and may, in turn, detract a few percent from the value of those diamonds. Some diamonds with unusually strong blue fluorescence can have a hazy or "milky" appearance. Ashford.com avoids offering such stones to its customers.

Fracture

An internal or external break or crack which may look like a common flaw. A fracture may have occurred at any time during the natural creation of the stone, or at any time during its use.

Fracture Filling

An enhancement process by which an inclusion is injected with filler material to mask its presence. A laboratory report such as those offered by Ashford.com is your best protection against fracture filled stones.

GIA

Gemological Institute of America, the single most widely accepted diamond authority. An independent, third-party grading service offering diamond grading reports. .

Girdle The outermost edge of a diamond, it can be unpolished or polished and faceted and of varying thickness. The girdle is generally where the diamond is held in a setting.
I1

A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond, meaning "Imperfect." A diamond rated I1 usually has inclusions visible to the unaided eye. There are three grades in the I range: I1, I2 and I3.

I2

A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond, slightly more imperfect than I1. There are three grades in the I range: I1, I2 and I3.

I3

A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond, slightly more imperfect than I2. There are three grades in the I range: I1, I2 and I3.

IF

Internally flawless. Free of any internal imperfections to the trained eye at 10 power magnification.

Inclusion A naturally occurring imperfection often referred to as a feather, pinpoint,cloud,crystal, spot etc. in the diamond that may or may not be visible to the naked eye.
Make The proportions and dimensions of a diamond, also known as cut.
Melee Diamonds which weigh less than 1/5 of a carat are known as melee. They are usually side diamonds or accent diamonds in a larger piece of jewelry or set in "clusters".
Natural An external characteristic on or near a diamond's girdle, a natural is actually an unpolished portion of the "skin" of the rough diamond.
Pavillion The faceted portion of the diamond which is below the girdle.
Pinpoint A very small inclusion inside a diamond.
Point A unit of weight measure equal to 1/100 of a carat. A 1/2 carat diamond weighs 50 points, etc.
Polish The overall quality and uniformity of the polish of a diamond. Graded from poor to excellent, it is based on the final finish applied to the facets and facet junctures by the cutter.
Refraction

Along with life, scintillation, brilliance, and dispersion, a word used to describe the ability of a diamond to "sparkle" in response to the introduction of light.

Scintillation

Along with life, brilliance, refraction and dispersion, a word used to describe the ability of a diamond to "sparkle" in response to the introduction of light.

SI1

A term used to describe the clarity of a diamond with slight inclusions. The GIA recognizes two grades in the SI range: SI1 and SI2. The EGL recognizes a third SI grade, SI3. Well cut diamonds in the SI1 range should be completely clean to the unaided eye when viewed from the top.

SI2 A term used to describe the clarity of a diamond with slight inclusions. The GIA recognizes two grades in the SI range: SI1 and SI2. The EGL recognizes a third SI grade, SI3. Well cut diamonds in the SI2 range should be completely to nearly clean to the unaided eye when viewed from the top.
SI3 A term used to describe the clarity of a diamond with slight inclusions. The GIA recognizes two grades in the SI range: SI1 and SI2. The EGL recognizes a third SI grade, SI3. Well cut diamonds in the SI3 range should be nearly clean to the unaided eye when viewed from the top.
Solitaire A single diamond set in a mounting which shows off the simplicity and elegance of the diamond.
Sparkle

Along with life, fire, scintillation, refraction, dispersion, a word used to describe the brilliance of a diamond.

Symmetry The overall uniformity of the cut of a diamond. Graded from poor to excellent, it is based on the diamond's proportions and the relation of one facet to another.
Table

The top and largest facet of a diamond, it is where much of its light both enters and exits the diamond.

Table %

The table is the top and largest facet of a diamond through which much of the light both enters and exits. The table percentage is calculated by dividing the average width of the table by the full width of the diamond at the girdle. A table that is too large or too small will reduce the overall brilliance of the diamond. In combination with other factors, the table percentage is a significant component of a diamond's overall cut quality and value.

VS1

A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond, meaning very slight inclusions. There are two grades in the VS range: VS1 and VS2. The imperfections in VS stones can be quite difficult to find even with the aid of 10 power magnification.

VS2

A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond, meaning very slight inclusions. There are two grades in the VS range: VS1 and VS2. The imperfections in VS stones can be quite difficult to find even with the aid of 10 power magnification.

VVS1

A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond, meaning very, very slight inclusions. There are two grades in the VVS range: VVS1 and VVS2. Imperfections in VVS stones should be extremely difficult to find even with the aid of 10 power magnification.

VVS2

A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond, meaning very, very slight inclusions. There are two grades in the VVS range: VVS1 and VVS2. Imperfections in VVS stones should be extremely difficult to find even with the aid of 10 power magnification.



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