| AGS |
American Gemological Society. Widely respected in the
trade, and considered by many the ultimate authority
for cut grading reports.
|
| Blemish |
An exterior imperfection on a diamond, usually a feature
of the cutting or polishing of the stone. A diamond
may have blemishes and still have an "Internally Flawless"
(IF) grading. Most blemishes are so small as to have
no affect on the beauty or brilliance of the stone.
|
| Brilliance |
Along with life, scintillation, refraction and dispersion,
a word used to describe the ability of a diamond to
"sparkle" in response to the introduction of light.
|
| Carat |
Standard unit of weight for diamonds and other gemstones.
One carat is equal to 1/5 of a gram. There are 100 "points"
to the carat (abbreviated ct.). |
| Clarity |
The degree to which a diamond is free from inclusions,
graded on a scale from Flawless (FL) to heavily imperfect
(I3). |
| Clarity Enhancement |
See "drilling" and "fracture filling""
Laboratory reports, such as those offered by Ashford.com
are your best protection against clarity enhanced stones. |
| Cleavage |
An internal feature which runs in the direction of
the grain of the diamond. It sometimes extends to the
surface of the diamond, or is "healed" inside the diamond.
A cleavage is sometimes easily visible, sometimes not.
A diamond may be "cleaved," or split in two with a smart,
precisely placed blow to a cleavage.
|
| Cloud |
A cluster of microscopic white or crystalline inclusions
or pinpoints inside a diamond. Usually visible only
with back lighting and under high magnification.
|
| Color |
For most preferences, the best color is no color or
"colorless". Most diamonds have some lesser or greater
degree of yellow or brown color, sometimes so slight
that it is virtually imperceptible. Some rare diamonds
have very intense or exotic colors (canary, pink, blue,
green, purple, or even red) and can be extraordinarily
valuable. Colors are designated by letter grades - "D"
for absolutely colorless to "Z" for light yellow, and
by verbal descriptions for the "fancy" colors.
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| Color Enhancement |
Laboratory processes ranging from a simple coating
or "painting" as it is known in the trade to sophisticated
permanent alteration of the presence of certain trace
elements found in the naturally occurring diamond. Laboratory
certification is your best protection against treated
stones.
|
| Culet |
The bottom most facet or point of a diamond. The culet
of some round diamonds may be so pointed they are considered
to not be a facet at all.
|
| Cut |
This is one of the most important of all diamond characteristics,
and among the hardest to judge. The proportions of a
stone as well as its polish and precision of faceting
determine how much of the diamond's potential fire and
beauty may be released.
Diamond cutters are paid to maintain a balance between
retaining the maximum weight from rough stones and cutting
the finest possible diamond at the expense of "yield."
Some diamonds are cut exceedingly deep or shallow, or
are shaped to conform to the original shape of the rough
stone. A poorly made stone tends to result in a higher
yield (less waste) from the rough while a better made
diamond "wastes" more of the rough. A well-cut round
diamond typically weighs only about 40% or less of the
original weight of the piece of rough the cutter started
with. This is why better cut diamonds command a premium,
and why Ideal Cut round diamonds are the most valuable
of all.
The way a diamond is cut profoundly influence its sparkle,
fire and brilliance, as well as its perceived size and
even, to some degree its apparent color. In order to
maximize the diamond's brilliance it must be well polished
and cut in a geometrically precise manner. This means
properly aligning the facets so light will enter the
diamond and reflect back through the large top facet,
or table of the diamond.
|
| Depth |
The distance between the culet (bottom) and the table
(top) of the diamond, recorded in a laboratory report
to the one hundredth of a millimeter. |
| Depth % |
The depth of a diamond is the distance between the table
and the culet. The depth percentage is calculated by dividing
the depth measurement by the full width of the diamond
at the girdle. A depth percentage that is too small (too
shallow) or too large (too deep) will result in light
loss and reduced brilliance. In combination with other
factors, the depth percentage is a significant component
of a diamond's overall cut quality and value. |
| Drilling |
An enhancement process by which a laser is used to drill
into a diamond to reach a dark colored inclusion. Acids
are then introduced through the small hole and into the
inclusion which is then burned out leaving a less noticeable
white or crystalline imperfection. The acid is then removed
by vacuum. The laser drilling process is also used occasionally
to aid in fracture filling. A laboratory report is your
best protection against drilled stones. |
| EGL |
European Gemological Laboratory. Widely respected in
the trade offering independent grading certificates.
|
| Eye-clean |
Free of any internal inclusions or external blemishes
to the naked eye, when viewed from the top. |
| Facets |
The polished planes (surfaces) on the surface of the
diamond, defining its dimensions. |
| Feather |
A common, naturally occurring white or crystalline
feather shaped inclusion, which may or may not be visible
to the naked eye.
|
| Fire |
Along with life, scintillation, refraction and dispersion,
a word used to describe the ability of a diamond to "sparkle"
in response to the introduction of light. |
| Fluorescence |
Also known as photoluminescence, the property some
diamonds have that makes them glow a certain color (usually
blue) when placed in an ultraviolet rich environment.
Strong, very strong and sometimes medium blue fluorescence
may slightly improve the color appearance of diamonds
rated "H" in color or below (I,J,K etc). Such fluorescence
in some of the "lower" colors may even enhance the value
of these stones. Strong blue fluorescence in diamonds
D to F color may impart a very slightly bluish appearance
and may, in turn, detract a few percent from the value
of those diamonds. Some diamonds with unusually strong
blue fluorescence can have a hazy or "milky" appearance.
Ashford.com avoids offering such stones to its customers.
|
| Fracture |
An internal or external break or crack which may look
like a common flaw. A fracture may have occurred at
any time during the natural creation of the stone, or
at any time during its use.
|
| Fracture Filling |
An enhancement process by which an inclusion is injected
with filler material to mask its presence. A laboratory
report such as those offered by Ashford.com is your
best protection against fracture filled stones.
|
| GIA |
Gemological Institute of America,
the single most widely accepted diamond authority. An
independent, third-party grading service offering diamond
grading reports. .
|
| Girdle |
The outermost edge of a diamond, it can be unpolished
or polished and faceted and of varying thickness. The
girdle is generally where the diamond is held in a setting. |
| I1 |
A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond,
meaning "Imperfect." A diamond rated I1 usually has
inclusions visible to the unaided eye. There are three
grades in the I range: I1, I2 and I3.
|
| I2 |
A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond,
slightly more imperfect than I1. There are three grades
in the I range: I1, I2 and I3.
|
| I3 |
A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond,
slightly more imperfect than I2. There are three grades
in the I range: I1, I2 and I3.
|
| IF |
Internally flawless. Free of any internal imperfections
to the trained eye at 10 power magnification.
|
| Inclusion |
A naturally occurring imperfection often referred to
as a feather, pinpoint,cloud,crystal, spot etc. in the
diamond that may or may not be visible to the naked eye. |
| Make |
The proportions and dimensions of a diamond, also known
as cut. |
| Melee |
Diamonds which weigh less than 1/5 of a carat are known
as melee. They are usually side diamonds or accent diamonds
in a larger piece of jewelry or set in "clusters". |
| Natural |
An external characteristic on or near a diamond's girdle,
a natural is actually an unpolished portion of the "skin"
of the rough diamond. |
| Pavillion |
The faceted portion of the diamond which is below the
girdle. |
| Pinpoint |
A very small inclusion inside a diamond. |
| Point |
A unit of weight measure equal to 1/100 of a carat.
A 1/2 carat diamond weighs 50 points, etc. |
| Polish |
The overall quality and uniformity of the polish of
a diamond. Graded from poor to excellent, it is based
on the final finish applied to the facets and facet junctures
by the cutter. |
| Refraction |
Along with life, scintillation, brilliance, and dispersion,
a word used to describe the ability of a diamond to
"sparkle" in response to the introduction of light.
|
| Scintillation |
Along with life, brilliance, refraction and dispersion,
a word used to describe the ability of a diamond to
"sparkle" in response to the introduction of light.
|
| SI1 |
A term used to describe the clarity of a diamond with
slight inclusions. The GIA recognizes two grades in
the SI range: SI1 and SI2. The EGL recognizes a third
SI grade, SI3. Well cut diamonds in the SI1 range should
be completely clean to the unaided eye when viewed from
the top.
|
| SI2 |
A term used to describe the clarity of a diamond with
slight inclusions. The GIA recognizes two grades in the
SI range: SI1 and SI2. The EGL recognizes a third SI grade,
SI3. Well cut diamonds in the SI2 range should be completely
to nearly clean to the unaided eye when viewed from the
top. |
| SI3 |
A term used to describe the clarity of a diamond with
slight inclusions. The GIA recognizes two grades in the
SI range: SI1 and SI2. The EGL recognizes a third SI grade,
SI3. Well cut diamonds in the SI3 range should be nearly
clean to the unaided eye when viewed from the top. |
| Solitaire |
A single diamond set in a mounting which shows off the
simplicity and elegance of the diamond. |
| Sparkle |
Along with life, fire, scintillation, refraction, dispersion,
a word used to describe the brilliance of a diamond.
|
| Symmetry |
The overall uniformity of the cut of a diamond. Graded
from poor to excellent, it is based on the diamond's proportions
and the relation of one facet to another. |
| Table |
The top and largest facet of a diamond, it is where
much of its light both enters and exits the diamond.
|
| Table % |
The table is the top and largest facet of a diamond
through which much of the light both enters and exits.
The table percentage is calculated by dividing the average
width of the table by the full width of the diamond
at the girdle. A table that is too large or too small
will reduce the overall brilliance of the diamond. In
combination with other factors, the table percentage
is a significant component of a diamond's overall cut
quality and value.
|
| VS1 |
A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond,
meaning very slight inclusions. There are two grades
in the VS range: VS1 and VS2. The imperfections in VS
stones can be quite difficult to find even with the
aid of 10 power magnification.
|
| VS2 |
A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond,
meaning very slight inclusions. There are two grades
in the VS range: VS1 and VS2. The imperfections in VS
stones can be quite difficult to find even with the
aid of 10 power magnification.
|
| VVS1 |
A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond,
meaning very, very slight inclusions. There are two
grades in the VVS range: VVS1 and VVS2. Imperfections
in VVS stones should be extremely difficult to find
even with the aid of 10 power magnification.
|
| VVS2 |
A term used to describe the clarity of the diamond,
meaning very, very slight inclusions. There are two
grades in the VVS range: VVS1 and VVS2. Imperfections
in VVS stones should be extremely difficult to find
even with the aid of 10 power magnification.
|